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How to correctly train rock climbing and protect your fingers
For those who are just starting climbing, the best way to climb a rock is to climb the rock itself, master the rock climbing skills, complete various actions to enrich its own action library, and at the same time improve the basic physical fitness needed for rock climbing. But you already have a certain foundation. To complete more difficult routes or to improve the efficiency of completing the lines, it is essential to carry out targeted training.
How to train, we must first know their own weaknesses
Your own weakest part determines the height you can reach in rock climbing. Finding weaknesses to solve it, your rock climbing can improve a step. When climbing a route, you need to know whether an action cannot be completed is technically insufficient or insufficient in order to perform targeted training.
Sometimes you have to face the weakest rock climbing action, try it repeatedly, find the reason, and need some patience and thinking. I will find the most suitable action for me first. If it is not enough power to complete this action, I will imitate that action in the rock hall or train the muscles of that part in the training room of the rock hall. This is very efficient because It takes a lot of time to go on a trip in the wild.
Improve physical fitness
Many people only go climbing in the wild on weekends. If you have good physical fitness, you can climb your target line several times. Increase the time of each rock climbing and shorten the rest time between each line. Perform at least one aerobic exercise for more than 20 minutes a week.
What is comprehensive training
Grab the point of force and force to do the action, not just hanging. In addition to exercising your fingers, the rotator cuff muscles must also be strengthened.
How to correctly suspend the fingerboard?
The arm should not be completely vertical and the elbow should be slightly curved. Relax completely vertically. Your wrist and your finger joints will suffer more pressure and get hurt. The elbow bends, the muscles tighten, and the joints are locked, keeping the upper body stable, thus reducing the pressure on the wrist and knuckles. At the same time, tighten the abdominal muscles to further stabilize the body and exercise the core muscles.
Test yourself and you know what kind of training you should train
For example, if the critical length of the first finger is about 2 cm, if the hands (4 fingers per hand) can be suspended for more than 10 seconds, then we start from this level. If you haven’t reached it yet, it is recommended that you do not train for the time being.
When training, it is better to need a device (as shown in the figure below): The pulley installed below the fingerboard is used to reduce the difficulty by subtracting its own weight. When using it, connect it to your own seatbelt while connecting the weight. This is also a very efficient way.
Basic training
Key points: First of all be psychologically prepared, because it takes a long time to grow. The training period was initially set to be once a week, short-term training, finger strength growth, failure to be consolidated, strength will also decline, so we must persist for some time. If the finger joints are painful, it is necessary to reduce the difficulty. If you feel it recovers quickly, you can do it twice a week, but you will get injured if you don't recover and you train.
Training content:
Grab the big 5 seconds... rest 5 seconds x 5, rest 3 minutes;
4 fingers 5 seconds... rest 5 seconds x 5, rest 3 minutes;
3 fingers 5 seconds ... rest 5 seconds × 5, rest 3 minutes;
2 fingers (forefinger and middle finger) for 5 seconds... 5 seconds for rest 5, rest for 3 minutes;
2 fingers (middle finger and ring finger) for 5 seconds... rest for 5 seconds × 5, rest for 3 minutes;
End of training.
If you need to recover faster, the method is to relax the muscles, the effective way is to step on the arm.
If after a while, you feel that this training is already very easy, then you can increase the difficulty, from 2cm to 1.5cm or very shallow points. You can also load on the original basis. No matter what degree you want to reach, the important thing is to move gradually, then you are getting closer to the goal.
If the point you want to train is very difficult, you can use the pulley to reduce it so that you can hang it. The training will increase slowly in the next week and you can use the pulley completely.
The training of fingers can be adjusted on this basis to meet your training requirements.
Refers to the difference between endurance training and power
Refers to endurance training points: low difficulty, long time, and many groups. The goal is to train your fingers for longer rock climbing on the rock wall.
For example: Hang for 20 seconds on a 2cm finger bar, rest for 30-60 seconds, and perform 2 times.
Points to Strength: Strength, short time, and fewer groups. To break the difficulty, or increase the time spent on the difficulty bar. The purpose is to complete more difficult actions in the circuit.
For example, a 2cm finger bar with one hand may only last for 2 seconds, the next time it can compete for longer, or it can be done twice.
This is only relatively speaking, it varies with each person's ability.
For training suggestions
The training that suits you is more efficient. It is too simple or too difficult to affect the effect. The former will feel that you have been practicing, but you don’t feel that progress. The latter is too difficult to complete every time, reducing the effectiveness of training and making you more vulnerable to injury. .
Record the degree of completion each time, under the premise of completion, each time a little more difficult to stimulate your muscles. After a while, you will find yourself making real progress.
Progress will not always rise, there will be a platform in the middle, and only then will it continue to progress. When you find that you have progressed for a period of time and have been stagnating at this stage, then you should practise the rest... let your fingers rest for a while and continue.
There are many ways in which training can achieve good results. First of all, it is necessary to understand the purpose of each training and whether it is suitable for its current situation.
Think about it and start. Two weeks later you can see your progress.
What should I do if my finger is injured?
The location of the pain may be on the three joints of the finger or on both sides of the finger. The condition is that the fingers cannot be fully opened or clenched. If you do not pay attention at an early stage, the problem will gradually become more serious, affecting rock climbing. When you feel pain, you should immediately stop rock climbing and control your injuries. The tape can have a fixed effect, but it is not a cure.
The main reason for the injury is that the fingers are not strong enough; or the action when the force is exerted is not good enough, and no more muscles are recruited to participate in the force; or the body itself is lack of strength, thus lacking stability and control, and overloading the fingers. To find out why, for most amateurs, especially women, we must first increase the exercise of the body's core strength.
Note the following points:
1. Take a few days off and wait for your fingers to slow down. If the joint is swollen, the effective way is to apply ice and stop the exudation of subcutaneous tissue. Afterwards, hot compresses or aerobic exercises are needed to speed up blood circulation and help recover the injured area.
2. Do not use violence to catch points, avoid catching small deduction points, statically grab points, and reduce shocks.
3. Find out whether there is a problem with your movement and if you are too dependent on your finger.
4. Fingerboard training. Using a pulley system to reduce the burden is an important part of this process. For example, if you weigh 60 kilograms, if you train directly on the fingerboard, you will directly load 60 kilograms. This training is dangerous and your fingers will be injured again.
Subtracting part of the body weight from the pulley fixed below the fingerboard allows you to stay at a position on the fingerboard for about 14 seconds (this indicator is only a measure of whether you can train at this level). In each training session you can Gradually subtract the weight, have a plan and pay attention to your own training intensity, and stop with a sense of pain. Ice after each training.
5. Without the power of shoulder strength, the movement is quite limited. At the same time, the rotator cuff muscles and back strength training are improved.
6. Improve physical stability by exercising the core and reduce the impact of swinging on the knuckles and wrist joints.
7. Start practicing.