The ratio of injured and uninjured climbers in the ice-climbing vanguard is 2:1. This ratio will allow us to understand the risk of falling. Everyone has the possibility of falling, but every effort should be made to avoid this.
In the thirty-five years of climbing experience, WillGadd has never crashed. The following is a summary of his experiences in evading the pioneering experience.
Understand risks and stay alert
When the vanguard climbs ice, if it falls, the lowest level may lead to fractures, concussions and other injuries. So you need to be alert and adjust yourself to the right state.
When the risk is high, minor errors can lead to serious consequences. If you keep a correct understanding of your risk, tell yourself "If you fall and you are seriously injured is the most optimistic result," you will be careful.
Beware of the "simple" route
There is no such thing as a "simple" climbing terrain. Whether it is on a steep ice wall or a gentle slope, the impact damage is almost the same.
All the ice walls can be deadly. Even in simple terrain, you should be vigilant, because the fall will mean injury.
Remind yourself that sooner or later you will fall
Pioneer ice climbing always has the possibility of falling. Even if the cone of ice hits your waist, the distance you fall will grow surprisingly.
Several of my friends have suffered long-distance crashes and suffered serious injuries. Even if there is no risk of falling, I think of them when I hit the ice cone, reminding myself that mistakes are hard to avoid completely.
Stepping on footsteps
The shocks I've seen recently have been cracked at the foot, and the hail fell down after bearing. If your feet are not reliable enough, then there will be danger.
Ensure the reliability of war
If your squatting position cannot bear the weight of the cracked foot, it is not reliable. Occasionally you will encounter a line that is suitable for hooking, but the rule still applies: the hook must be completely reliable, and the position where it can be hooked down may not be able to cope with the outward pull.
If there is a slightest degree of uncertainty, then you will be able to stabilize your battle. Do not be merciless, wave into the ice until it is completely reliable.
If you don't know enough about the sound of ice, ice conditions, and confrontation tests, you shouldn't be a pioneer.
Don't stay under other climbers
Do not complain about falling ice. Icefall is part of ice climbing. But if you come to you, you may fall or be seriously injured.
If someone climbs under me, I will show them their position — I don’t want any bloodshed to happen. If someone starts to move toward me while climbing a route, or if I'm close to protecting me, I will communicate politely and reach consensus.
Do not hit the cones too high
I have seen several times that the cone of ice has hit half an hour, leaving behind an accident that hangs on the ice. It is easy to imagine what happened before.
If the ice cone hits too high, it will exert a straight outward force on the tip, which may cause the ice to crack. The position of the ice picker's ice should usually be lower, making it easier for you to continue climbing and not letting you fall.
Don't always think about speeding up
Kick ice, fight crickets, and use the right technique to climb smoothly. Smoothness means fast and efficient.
When I saw that someone did not play ice or fight when they climbed, he was terribly frightened because he might not even know how dangerous his situation was.
The gods with decades of experience like UeliSteck may be able to climb quickly, but you are not Ueli. Remember that Ueli has also crashed down many times.
Pay attention to abnormal
I was surprised when I was dislocated recently when I was climbing ice with the students. But afterwards, the fights were very stable and they successfully completed the remaining difficult routes. Then I topped a line and climbed a line. I hit the hail again, pulled it up and took it out again. what happened? Doesn’t this ice wall know who I am? I am a bit embarrassed, slamming hard and climbing to the top, but I never understood the reason.
In the evening, when I inspected the hailstone, I discovered that the tip of the tadpole was fractured at a 45-degree angle. This was already done before climbing the top rope, but I couldn't find any abnormality from the rear when I was flying.
I didn't pay attention to early anomalies, which could lead to falling in Pioneer. The experience of climbing for so many years tells me that when I feel strange, then usually there is a problem, but I have not found it yet.
Do not be overly optimistic
Don't be too optimistic about your capabilities, ice conditions, results, or anything else like this.
If you want to live, stay pessimistic and accurately assess your abilities. When you are good enough, you will naturally know because you have excellent potential. When climbing, slow down and follow the correct method.
Stop before falling
If you feel sore in your arms, buckle the strap into a firmly fixed broomstick and hang it to rest. You can also play one or two cones of ice, or do an ice hole to hang yourself. Or climb to a place where you can rest. If the ice condition is bad, don't expect to get better.
You shouldn't continue to climb when the arm is sore. You need more control. Before you want to return, you must weigh the risks. Although you are in control of the situation, you can be proud of it, but the fall can make people regret it.
Fear means you overestimate your ability
"Enjoying Fun" means that you are stable, safe and competent in this environment. If you do not enjoy it, you may have problems.
At last......
If you are in distress, you must at least ensure that you have a contact person, a backup plan, and enough survival equipment. If you climb up where there is no cell phone signal and you can't contact the outside world, it would be unwise. Do a good enough emergency plan to better enjoy the fun of ice climbing.
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