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Building an Outdoor Table (Part 3)
In this final post of the series, I'll be wrapping up the project by discussing the joinery techniques I used and explaining why I chose them. I'll also dive into the finish for this outdoor table and the reasoning behind my selection. To recap, in Part 1, I covered the design of the table and the wood I selected—white oak. In Part 2, I focused on milling the wood and preparing the individual pieces for the joinery, as well as laying out the components to maximize visual appeal. Now, it's time to bring everything together and complete the table.
**Joinery – Drawboring**
As with most tables, the standard choice for attaching the apron to the legs is a mortise and tenon joint. It’s a strong and reliable method that has stood the test of time. When planning this table, I knew I would use a mortise and tenon joint, but I decided to enhance it further by adding a drawbore. You can find more details about what a drawbore joint is and how to create one in this post, so I recommend checking it out for a deeper understanding.
To make the joint, I used my drill press to bore out the majority of the material. However, the legs were too tall for my mortising machine, which was a bit of a setback. As you can see in the image below, after rough drilling the mortises, I finished the joints by hand using a mallet and chisel.
One important point to mention is that I had already cut the tenons and used them to mark the positions of the mortises. The layout lines are visible in the photo above. Once the joints were completed, I did a dry fit to get a sense of how the table would look once assembled.
At this stage, I noticed that the table looked a bit too square and needed some refinement. So, I decided to add a slight taper to the inner faces of the legs where the table rails would be attached. However, I postponed cutting those tapers until after the drawbore process was complete. Below, you can see the fully assembled base with the subtle taper I added to the legs—just enough to give the table a more refined appearance.
After the glue dried, I trimmed the dowels from the drawbore pegs and sanded the surface to smooth it out.
**Outdoor Finish**
You can refer back to Part 1 of this build to understand why I chose white oak for this project. Since this table will be used outdoors year-round, I wanted a durable finish that could withstand the elements. After researching various options, I found that many outdoor finishes require frequent maintenance and annual reapplication, which I wanted to avoid.
Drawing from my experience with boating—where white oak has been traditionally used—I decided to go with Epifanes clear varnish. This marine-grade finish is designed to protect wood from water and UV exposure, making it an excellent choice for my outdoor table.
The application of Epifanes follows a “hurry up and wait†process. I started by thinning the product 50/50, applying it, and letting it dry for 24 hours. Then, I gradually reduced the thinning ratio with each subsequent coat. In total, the table received five coats of Epifanes. This finish should last several years before needing a touch-up. If needed, a light sanding and a couple more coats will keep it looking great for years to come.
Here’s the finished table, placed in its final location, ready to enjoy for many years to come.
That’s all for now. I have a few other projects in the works, and there may even be a big announcement coming soon—so stay tuned!