In the process of our climbing, the control of the center of gravity is the key. For rock climbers, the center of gravity is the foundation. Today, I will introduce to you how the center of gravity can be mastered for newcomers to learn.
I often see newcomers straightening their hands, butting their buttocks, placing their weight on their feet, and then twisting and grabbing. They often say to newcomers that it is more labor-saving to stretch their hands, and it is more labor-intensive to lock in both hands. - Today we will start here.
Of course, their argument is correct, but why two-handed locking will be a more labor-intensive point, after the two hands straighten out, it will be more labor-saving? Personally think that it is because after the two hands stretched to make the waist a larger range of activities, and the two hands to lock when the lumbar movement range is smaller, and the waist, more to withstand the center of gravity movement.
Gravity - My understanding is the center point of a person or thing in a certain state. In general, the center of the person should be at the waist of the body. When the person stands upright, the center of gravity is left, the person is left leaning and the center of gravity is right. People are leaning to the right. Because this time the center point has deviated from the vertical, so people will tilt. Similarly, if the ball is stationary, the center of gravity is in the center of the ball, the center of gravity is left, the ball is left, the center of gravity is right, and the ball is right. The center of gravity of a person is the center of gravity of the ball and the center of gravity determines the direction of movement. We return to our topic: the shift of focus when climbing.
In the rock hall, people often shout at the bottom: focus, quickly move to focus! The people climbing above can't understand it, and the people below can't wait to replace the climbing person to complete the action. When I observed that many people climbed, they noticed that they were no longer moving, but focused, unable to see or touch, but actually existed and could feel it.
When you start to meditate and watch the master climb the same line, you will be surprised to find that regardless of their movements are the same, but there is a kind of power in their movement that cannot be seen by the naked eye, but the spirit can feel. Pay close attention to and think about this power, and slowly you will find a commonality. They are all arc movements. And this kind of arc movement is exactly what everyone has already existed and has in common - the center of gravity moves. It can be imagined that when the strength of the hand is pulled up by the climb, the center of gravity moves straight or obliquely, and this time it is mainly the force of the arm that pulls up the body.
While climbing the arm to straighten sideways and twisting your waist, this time you can see that your center of gravity experienced a radian up process as the waist swings from left to right or from right to left. After you have been climbing for a while, if you still only know that the sideways movement is center of gravity, it will be more labor-saving but you do not know why, and you have reached the first bottleneck period because you have not really thought clearly about the center of gravity. In the movement trajectory.
Now let's discuss how to break through this problem:
I already said in front: The center of gravity is the center of gravity of the ball. The center of gravity is in the center of the ball, the center of gravity is left, the ball is left, the center of gravity is right, and the ball is right. So we moved this theory to climbing. To climb, we must first be able to understand that climbing is shifting its own center of gravity, the ball. No matter how it moves, the distance between the sphere and the sphere is always the same. In a circle, when the radius is constant, the trajectory is always the same regardless of the circle. When we put it on the rock wall, we always have the left hand right foot or the right hand left foot on the rock wall. No matter who it is or how tall it is, the range of movement on the rock wall in the static process is not Will exceed his hand or foot point distance, because hand points and foot points have determined the size of an invisible circle when you are climbing, that is, the center of gravity. The trajectory of the center of gravity in the climbing process is a circle or a linear movement, which directly determines the amount of labor and energy consumed by the arm.
When you can understand this, I suggest that you can go to bouldering, on the one hand, to add more technical movement training, on the one hand you can observe the master climb. Observing the master's climbing is divided into two phases: one is the learning action and the other is the observation center of gravity. Here I focus on the learning action because the action can be seen with the naked eye, and it can be directly imitated, and the focus is to rely on the heart to understand, can you comprehend to look at your own creation.
In the bouldering, in addition to moving up, there are movements to the left and right. At this time, the center of gravity shifts from the plane circle to the three-dimensional circular track. The center of gravity shifts from plane to three-dimensional, and before each action, where is the center of gravity of the person, how the center of gravity will move, plane, three-dimensional, and three-dimensional. After an action is decomposed, it will find that the transfer of the center of gravity is three-dimensional. It is really amazing! Between each movement, the movement of the center of gravity needs to take into account the radius of the center of gravity of the person with the plane parallel to the rock wall and the radius of the center of gravity from the wall of the rock to the person. Similar to a ball, in addition to the radius of the ball from the center to the top and the bottom, there are multiple front and rear radii at the same time. Or it can be interpreted as having a center with an equal radius. It is a trajectory between any two points of the sphere, and the orbit of the arc between our center of gravity and the two points on the sphere is very similar and has Overlapped. I am very embarrassed that I can only understand one of the mysteries, but because of the lack of text can not be expressed in words.
Climbing to a certain time, when you can consider any action with the focus, there is no doubt that the ability to read the line will be greatly enhanced, and will increase the accuracy of each action and shot, saving more More arm strength. Skillfully apply your waist, learn to think about the movement of the center of gravity, and you must be able to feel the ineffable, mysterious and real power in your climbing career.
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