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Today's modern athletic sports has developed into a scientific selection of materials, scientific training, and scientific management. It has become the three major factors in improving the level of sports technology. Practice has proved that only those athletes with talents can climb to the top of the world level of sport. Then how to select talented people who are suitable for this sport from the young people according to the characteristics and requirements of the rock climbing, using modern scientific methods and means?
In the past, people overemphasized the impact of training on human athletic ability and thought that as long as they practice hard, they can achieve good results, thus ignoring the selection of materials in sports training. It should be acknowledged that the acquired training can greatly improve people's athletic ability. Even individuals with poor physical fitness can achieve good results through training. However, it is necessary to train outstanding athletes who have reached the world advanced level. of.
So how do rock climbers choose materials? In this special reference to the information on material selection, combined with China's experience in rock climbing training, we propose the following material selection scheme for joint research, improvement, improvement and improvement.
First, the physical form of the body climbing rock climbing, although not as outstanding as the characteristics of blue, volleyball, throwing items, but it also has its obvious characteristics, through observation and testing and collection of data show that the world's best rock climber height stability Trend development. Its morphological features are well-balanced, muscular, elastic, light body, slightly longer upper limbs, shorter longitudinal axis of the pelvis, and narrower lateral axis of the human body.
1, height:
Height is one of the important indicators that reflect the level of human growth and development. In the climbing competition, when the span between the fulcrums is large, the height and arm length account for obvious advantages. For example, in the 5th National Climbing Competition, when athletes climbed to 21-22 points between 8- and 9-meters, Zhang Xx, with a height of 1.81 meters, passed smoothly, while He X with strong strength was at 19, 20 points. For a long time, it took a lot of energy, and when it was grasping the 22th pivot point, it was eventually limited by height (1.71m), and it failed to catch and fell off, ranking second. Therefore, the minimum standard male for height is 1.75 meters. Female: 1.65 meters or more is appropriate.
2. The (index-to-height) index (index-to-height) index is commonly used to reflect the length of the upper limb. The larger the index, the longer the upper limb. This is related to the performance and technology of many sports projects, and rock climbing is no exception. The average of China's population (index-to-height) index is much lower than that of white and black Americans. Judging from the statistic data of athletes in our country, the index has a great impact on performance. For example, women’s rock climbers Zhao×× and Huang×× have a height of 1.63 meters, but the Zhao arm is 69 centimeters long and yellow is 66 centimeters. The lower extremity is also 4 centimeters longer than the yellow one. This is a slight difference in the adoption of the same At the pivot and span, Zhao has a clear advantage and an advantage over Huang. This shows that when selecting athletes with the same height, they can choose from the size of the (segment-to-height) index.
3, Quetelet index (weight / height × 1000)
Weight / height × 1000, this index is an important indicator reflecting the degree of development of the human body. Height refers to longitudinal development, and body weight is a lateral development index. It can reflect the body's fullness to a certain extent. Rock climbing is a project based on strength and endurance. It must have a certain muscle strength, so it is appropriate to have a relatively small lean body mass.
4, weight = (height - 110) × 90%
Excessive weight directly and apparently destroys flexibility and increases the inertia of the body and parts, which reduces the ability to contract muscles. Therefore, a rock climber must have a corresponding weight in proportion to his height in order to obtain a multiplier effect. According to statistics, in the fifth national climbing competition, the average weight of the top six men in the men's group was 60.83 kilograms. Compared with the standard body weight required for rock climbing (60.57 kilograms), the difference was very small, indicating that the weight was appropriate. Female athletes, on the other hand, have a large gap of 4.4 kg (the average weight of the first 6 is 54 kg and the standard weight is 49.6 kg). Therefore, weight should be reduced appropriately.
Second, physical function Heart work index: Heart function index, is an important indicator to measure and reflect the level of human heart function. Heart work index (30 seconds 30 seconds) belongs to a quantitative load function test. The lower the pulse frequency in quiet, the greater the power of the heart contraction, the strong pumping function of the heart; the fewer the number of pulses immediately after exercise, indicating that when the quantitative load is completed, the heart muscle can be saved; the pulse frequency in the recovery period is small, indicating that the heart The faster the function is restored. Therefore, the smaller the heart function index, the better the heart function.
Heart Work Index = P1+P2+P3-200
Third, the physical fitness and the significance of the choice of exercise quality indicators reflect the basic activity of climbing athletes objective indicators. A good and comprehensive level of athletic quality is the foundation for mastering the techniques of rock climbing. Therefore, the quality test is an important part of the selection of materials.